The Double-breasted Suit

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Words by Chris Gill

Introduction

Trends come and go, but there are some styles that are truly timeless. These are the pieces that every modern gentleman needs in his wardrobe. The double-breasted suit is without a doubt one of these sartorial staples, despite the fears many men might have of giving the style a try.

In recent seasons we've seen prints and adventurous hues sent down the runway, but here at UKYS we believe you can't beat classic cuts and colours. A black, grey or navy double-breasted suit will remain in your wardrobe a lifetime and exudes effortless confidence and style.

We take a look at what makes the DB suit such a solid choice for your collection, from the style's humble history to its fabric and design. Finally, we look at the most important details to look out for when investing in your own double-breasted suit.

A Brief History of
the Double-breasted Suit

A grey striped six-on-one double-breasted suit with jetted pockets, a style popular in the 1980s (Source: Wikipedia)

The history of the double-breasted suit can be traced back through imperialist British history, particularly to the British navy. Life on deck was often an unhappy one for sailors, so the double-breasted jacket was a true game-changer when it came along.

One of the first known DB jackets was the reefer, which was loved for its durability and warmth. With the option of being buttoned left side over right or right side over left, the innovative jacket kept sailors warm no matter what way the wind was blowing.

Next to don the stand-out design were soldiers, who used the double-breasted jacket to keep warm during trench life. The double layer of buttons made it less likely for a soldier's jacket to fly open on the battlefield, adding an extra layer of protection.

As time went on, many members of the British royal family wore the double-breasted suit with panache, including Prince Charles. This led to a sense of status and power that is still associated with the style of suiting today.

The UKYS Double-breasted Suit

Our double-breasted suit embodies the classic design of the iconic style, while also keeping it contemporary. Crafted from 100% pure wool, the suit is warm enough to combat the cold during the winter months, while its 100% pure satin lining also keeps it breathable during the warmer months.

This lining also adds an element of luxury to the suit, as well as making it extremely comfortable. Meanwhile, its wool exterior also gives it a stylish and traditional texture that simply no other fabric can compare to.

Made in a light grey hue and featuring a subtle pinstriped pattern, our DB suit is suitable for any season and for work or play. Team yours with a crisp white shirt, a skinny textured tie and chestnut perforated brogues to cut a dash in the boardroom and beyond.

How to Wear

Both mobsters in the 1940s and money-hungry businessmen in the 1980s may have given double-breasted tailoring a bad name, but it's time that these time-honoured stereotypes were forgotten once and for all.

The designs of the DB suit during these time periods were far boxier in shape, making them seem oversized and often comical. Think Batman villains or characters from Bugsy Malone! More modern styles are obviously very different from this, but are still a bolder choice compared to the single-breasted suit due to the fact they usually feature peak lapels and broader shoulders. In which case, you need to feel confident in making a style statement when wearing a double-breasted style.

Here are some general guidelines to consider when investing in a DB suit:

• The Cut: Providing you keep the fit tailored at the waist, double-breasted jackets can be worn by all body types. Further to this, high armholes and slimmer sleeves will assist in creating a more modern silhouette.
• The Lapels: When it comes to the lapels of your DB jacket, we would suggest choosing peak over notch. As mentioned previously, a double-breasted suit is a bolder choice anyway, so its detailing should be the same. Peak lapels create the illusion of a wider chest, which is never a bad thing!
• The Buttons: When it comes to formal suiting and structured blazers, it's best to opt for a jacket with six buttons. Always fasten the top button of your jacket, while leaving the bottom undone. While you'd unbutton your single-breasted button when you sit down, there's no need to do this with a DB style.
• The Lengths: We would suggest choosing a double-breasted jacket that is shorter than a classic suit blazer. This will show more of your legs, creating the illusion of more height.
• The Fit: We would highly recommend getting a tailor to alter the jacket of your DB suit to fit your body type as well as it can. As the double-breasted style is adventurous enough as it is, you don't want a poor fit to leave you sticking out like a sore sartorial thumb!
• The Styling: Seeing as the design of a DB suit already makes a bold style statement, it's best to keep it simple when it comes to styling. Team with traditional shirt and tie combos to keep focus on your suit jacket. As mentioned earlier, we'd also suggest keeping it classic with a neutral hue such as grey. Leave bright colours and prints to the fashion bloggers!

Final Word

When it comes to making a bold and confident style statement that is still sharp and classic, there really is no better option than the double-breasted suit. From humble beginnings keeping sailors in the British navy safe, to both the runway and High Street today – the DB design has always mixed both style and practicality together perfectly.

So whether you want to make a big impression in the boardroom, or simply feel like trying out new sartorial landscapes, the double-breasted suit has all you need. Keep it simple and classic when it comes to colours and styling, and let your confidence do the rest.

Remember, double the buttons – double the fun!